Progoti: A New Kind of Clothing Line

A social enterprise by Nurjahan Begum helps provide insurance and pensions for garment workers in Bangladesh.

Aisle of a store stocked with a variety of products
Interior of Ethical Local Market

Progoti and Ethical Local Market: Retail That Makes a Difference

By Miriam Bosiljevac

“Progoti means progress in Bengali”, shared Nurjahan Begum, social entrepreneur and owner of a clothing line.

3 different shirts displayed in row
Progoti clothing line

Begum wanted to find a way to support the garment workers by providing them with an insurance and pension plan.

The garment workers the fashion industry primarily come from developing countries. They work long days, and by the time they reach 40 years of age, they can’t sustain the hours required of them. Begum wanted to give these workers some financial security. “From 18 to 40, they can work. But what’s going to happen after 40? People don’t die at 40.”

Providing pensions to garment workers in Bangladesh

Begum was inspired by the pensions Canadians receive when they turn 65. In parts of the world, parents become dependent on their children to look after them. By providing financial support through her clothing company, she can help prevent these workers from becoming a burden. “When they are old, they’ll have some money to buy their food (…) They are not dependent on anybody for their basic needs,” she said.

Nurjahan Begum in front of shelves in her store
Nurjahan Begum, owner Progoti and Ethical Local Market

With guidance from HELIX, she started her clothing company in 2017. Begum’s background is in supply chain for fashion brands, so she was able to put to use her knowledge of the garment industry and create her own timeless designs. She’s also collaborated with other designers and releases a new line once a year.

The process for her clothing collection begins with a trip to Bangladesh to a wholesale market. “I don't make new fabric for my collection. So, I'm trying to save a little bit of the environment,” Begum says, adding that it’s also more cost-effective this way.

A different pricing model

Her pricing model is also unique. Most retailers do a margin base, which means charging a price that is higher than the cost of the product. Instead of profiting off the garment workers, Begum shows on the price tag the exact breakdown of each garment. The tag lists the cost for fabric and accessories, the manufacturing cost, shipping and distribution. By showing the exact cost, it reminds consumers that there were different people involved bringing the garment to them. “Whatever it is, it’s not only the product, it has other people’s contribution. Who makes it? (…) That’s what I want to inspire to think about.”

Each customer then has the opportunity to add an additional amount to their purchase, and this money goes towards supporting the individual policies that Begum has set-up for the garment workers. To date, she’s able to support 22 different workers with individual insurance and pension policies. This means that they won’t be dependent on their family as they become too old to work, but they’ll also receive money if they’re injured.

A store that sells Canadian goods

Her store, Ethical Local Market (ELM) on Queen Street East in Toronto, is another way that she’s making the world a better place. Supporting 50 different vendors, the store showcases a variety of Canadian-made goods. Begum, like many small businesses, struggled to build a connection online and fared better at craft markets. But a store gave her a place to showcase more of her clothing line, as well as allow customers to try on clothes. It also gives her vendors a chance to build a community.

Exterior of Ethical Local Market
Ethical Local Market

“It takes time to build a customer [base],” Begum said. It’s also a more effective way to find customers who resonate with the mission of the store and of Progoti. “They care about sustainability. They care about ethical practice of businesses,” she adds.

What's a Social Enterprise? An explainer

By Miriam Bosiljevac

What is social entrepreneurship?

Social entrepreneurship is a form of business that takes up responsibility to make the world a better place.

It can:

  • take any form (incorporated, sole proprietorship, not-for-profit or co-operative)
  • be large or small
  • focus on people over profit
  • solve a social, cultural or environmental problem
  • be transformative

What’s the motivation?

Each social enterprise focuses on a social group, not individual consumers. There is a belief that they can contribute to not just economic, but social or environmental development. Social entrepreneurs do this by re-investing profit or surplus to further their mission. They work to creating a product or providing a service that will help them turn their vision into reality.

What it isn’t

Social activism or charity – A social enterprise seeks to address neglect, suffering or marginalization through economic forces, not just provide aid to a segment of society.

Corporate Social Responsibility – A social enterprise is a strategic way to make an impact, not just a by-product.

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